Tuesday, January 28, 2014

We get to understand why all of the outings come with the “weather permitting” caveat



Today, we got to experience the always changing, and always treacherous weather in Antarctica.  We were supposed to sail down the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula.  But sea ice was blocking the channel, and the boat just could not get through – or rather, could probably have gotten through, but it was unclear whether or not it would make it back out.  So rather than landing on the peninsula, or one of the islands that rim it, the captain decided to stay away, and take us by Zodiaks to the sea ice that form large interlocking flows, to experience what that is like. 
The first group went out (we are divided in 4 groups – because we are not allowed by the Antarctica treaty to put more than 100 people at a time on ground or ice.  So we send people 50 at a time, in 4 groups). 
 However, once the second group went onto the large ice flow, the currents and winds caused a lot of sea ice to surround it, and they simply could not get out:  this is exactly what happened recently to the ship that got stuck on the other side of the continent:  the wind pushes all of the ice flows and ice shelf to one side, closing the channel to the sea- and it happens very quickly.  The picture shows the landing, but also the jigsaw puzzle made by ice and water.

The crew is always on the look out: conditions change, wind change and suddenly, you are stuck – this is what happened to Shakelton 100 years ago – almost in the same place…..

Joe, Suzanne, Jim and me where in the 4th group, so we were safe in the boat during the entire thing, although a bit frustrated because we did want to get out on the ice shelf too.  The amazing crew here, while all along seeming very calm, did an amazing job at ensuring the zodiaks found channels to get back out in the free flowing water, and everyone came back safe and sound – although some were quite cold – having spent 3 hours in a zodiac. 


 
 Once every one was back on board, the groups that had not yet gone to the ice shelf got to go (kudos to the expedition team, who, I’m sure, would have much preferred to take a warm shower after their morning expedition!)   It was well worth the wait, as seeing how the ice moves and how quickly it can change was really interesting.

We eventually did go to the ice shelves, and saw up close how treacherous it can be, and how the different flows bump into each other and the water channels open and close randomly and very fast.
Below - Joe and me on the ice shelf- could be anyone - we are all dressed the same, and have so many layers on that are all about the same size and color...  But i'm pretty sure this is us
A bunch of Adelie penguins came to keep us company on our ice flow:  There were probably wondering what all these big red penguins were up to....  (have I mentioned that I love penguins??).  The Adelies are particularly cute, because instead of walking, they slide on their bellies when they can (the emperor penguins do that too).


After dinner, as we were sailing north toward the south Shetland Island, we passed this very typical tabular iceberg – it is over 1 km long….







Tomorrow, I’m getting up at 5am, to take a hike in a dormant volcano that is now part of the islands! (weather permitting)

No comments: