Last night, while all of us tourist were asleep, the boat sailed
away from the islands that rim the coast of the actual Antarctic continent
(similarly to the east coast of the united states – think Martha’s vineyard, or
the outer banks of North Carolina, but with fewer people and a lot more
icebergs and penguins!), and anchored by the actual continent – where we disembarked
near a large glacier call the Nekko glacier (named after the boat that found
it).
We took the obligatory picture of “7th
continent” –
apparently, that’s what one does when finally reaching this milestone, and climbed
a short but slippery trail to an overlook.
And that’s where it officially happened:
we ran out of adjectives all together!
It simply would be foolish of me to try and describe this convergence of
water, ice, penguins talking to each other, and the booming sound of avalanches
from on top of the glacier. So I won’t
try – and again instead I will attempt to give a small taste of the experience
with pictures (now that I’ve figured out how to use the panoramic feature on my
phone, I can at least try to give an idea of what we are experiencing.
We took this trail through the
rookeries to get to a point of view a few hundred feet high and starting taking
pictures of everything:
This is what a rookery looks like- a place where many penguins build nests and raise chicks. We often saw them
picking up a small stone, considering it carefully, and then pick another one that
looks exactly alike to bring the nest – they clearly have a vision of what they
are trying to build, but it’s very abstruse to us.
This is the boat next to a pretty blue iceberg and
glacier.
Jim Suzanne and me, about 1/2 way up: Notice that Suzanne and me had
dropped our big coat, and our hats an mitten - I was quite balmy in the
sun!
The Nekko glacier, seen from above,
Suzanne and I made it to the top before "the boys" because we had the good sense to drop heavy clothing on the way.... so we took another obligatory picture.
And below, they all line up to enter the water and go fishing (I have a good video of that - will update blog once back)
Then it was time for lunch – after which Suzanne and I
decided to take a dip in the saltwater pool on the boat just “because it’s
there” – it’s nicely heated, but it was very cold getting out of it… (as made clear from the large blue iceberg in the back ground.
After a bit of a nap, we went on a “zodiac cruise” around
Paradise bay – which was so named by early whalers, so I guess they liked it
too. One interesting feature of this bay
is that it shows that Antarctica is in fact not completely empty: there are many stations from various
countries – the biggest on being the USA and Russia (that was easy to guess,
right?) – The USA has about 5000 here during the season (father south).
Here is the supply ship for the Chilean outpost (above), as well as the buildings of the Argentinian one.
We of course saw many more cool landscapes in our Zodiaks – the weather was downright balmy – about 36 degrees (that’ MUCH warmer than NewYork right now) and when the sun came out, I had to remove my hats and gloves… the sun is really strong down here.
Here is the supply ship for the Chilean outpost (above), as well as the buildings of the Argentinian one.
We of course saw many more cool landscapes in our Zodiaks – the weather was downright balmy – about 36 degrees (that’ MUCH warmer than NewYork right now) and when the sun came out, I had to remove my hats and gloves… the sun is really strong down here.
We encountered several seals on
flows (but since there is very little that looks as much as a seal on a flow as
another seal on a flow, I’ll save some bandwidth and not post this one….),
as well as a shag (Antarctic cormorant) rookery. However, Joe had taken the wrong super-duper lens
on the boat (for a recap of Joe’s super duper lenses, read the blog of our
previous trip….), so we could not document it….
But the wide angle lens he did bring was perfect to capture the arches
and other structures, and colors of the glacier
(Just before reaching the glacier, another Zodiak flagged us,
pretending to be stuck – In fact it was a few of the crew members, offering us
glasses of Champagne, so that we could properly cheer the day! It was silly and fun.)
These cliffs also have something very unusual here: green! Moss (one of the only 3 plants that form the entire flora of Antarctica is growing right underneath the cormorants rookery – maybe guano has something to do with it?
Back into the boat, we had a leisurely dinner (I’ll take
some picture from inside the boat – which is really nice- during the return
through the Drake passage, since there is not much to do then….. Assuming the sea is calm and I feel OK….).
1 comment:
Breathtaking views! I look forward to each blog.
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