We get to understand why all of the outings come with the “weather permitting” caveat

Today, we got to experience the always changing, and always treacherous weather in Antarctica.  We were supposed to sail down the east side of the Antarctic Peninsula.  But sea ice was blocking the channel, and the boat just could not get through – or rather, could probably have gotten through, but it was unclear whether or not it would make it back out.  So rather than landing on the peninsula, or one of the islands that rim it, the captain decided to stay away, and take us by Zodiaks to the sea ice that form large interlocking flows, to experience what that is like. 

The first group went out (we are divided in 4 groups – because we are not allowed by the Antarctica treaty to put more than 100 people at a time on ground or ice.  So we send people 50 at a time, in 4 groups). 

 However, once the second group went onto the large ice flow, the currents and winds caused a lot of sea ice to surround it, and they simply could not get out:  this is exactly what happened recently to the ship that got stuck on the other side of the continent:  the wind pushes all of the ice flows and ice shelf to one side, closing the channel to the sea- and it happens very quickly.  The picture shows the landing, but also the jigsaw puzzle made by ice and water.

The crew is always on the look out: conditions change, wind change and suddenly, you are stuck – this is what happened to Shakelton 100 years ago – almost in the same place…..

Joe, Suzanne, Jim and me where in the 4^th group, so we were safe in the boat during the entire thing, although a bit frustrated because we did want to get out on the ice shelf too.  The amazing crew here, while all along seeming very calm, did an amazing job at ensuring the zodiaks found channels to get back out in the free flowing water, and everyone came back safe and sound – although some were quite cold – having spent 3 hours in a zodiac. 

 

 Once every one was back on board, the groups that had not yet gone to the ice shelf got to go (kudos to the expedition team, who, I’m sure, would have much preferred to take a warm shower after their morning expedition!)   It was well worth the wait, as seeing how the ice moves and how quickly it can change was really interesting.

We eventually did go to the ice shelves, and saw up close how treacherous it can be, and how the different flows bump into each other and the water channels open and close randomly and very fast.

Below - Joe and me on the ice shelf- could be anyone - we are all dressed the same, and have so many layers on that are all about the same size and color...  But i'm pretty sure this is us

A bunch of Adelie penguins came to keep us company on our ice flow:  There were probably wondering what all these big red penguins were up to....  (have I mentioned that I love penguins??).  The Adelies are particularly cute, because instead of walking, they slide on their bellies when they can (the emperor penguins do that too).

 

After dinner, as we were sailing north toward the south Shetland Island, we passed this very typical tabular iceberg – it is over 1 km long….

Tomorrow, I’m getting up at 5am, to take a hike in a dormant volcano that is now part of the islands! (weather permitting)

A perfect day to go sliding down glaciers – and watch whales!

We are still sailing North along the West side of the Antartica peninsula.  This morning, we stopped by Cuverville island, one of the many islands that dot the coast of the continent.  Joe’s back was hurting, so he decided to take it easy and did not come onshore – which means that there are fewer pictures of penguins (have I mentioned yet that I love penguins??).  

  I could not resist however taking a few with my iPhone:  In fact, I have to make a conscious effort not to continually take pictures of them, not just because they are so cute and funny, but also because they add such a nice focus to the great landscape.

Here, we can also see a skua (the bird flying above the rookery) trying to steal eggs or even chicks.  We saw him grab and egg, and drop it on the rocks to break it….  I guess he has to survive too….. Anyway, any egg that has not hatched by now, would not produce a viable chick before the parents have to move on.

Now tell me - could YOU have resisted talking a picture of this??

Or this:  This is a “penguin highway” .  The penguins have to go from the sea, to their nests, which are sometimes quite far away, and uphill. They go up and down on “penguin’s highways”, one side for up and one side for down.  They rarely stray.  We were told emphatically that they have the right of way, and that if we need to cross the highway, we need to make sure no penguin is coming.

On the cliffs, we saw one of the only 2 flowering plants in Antarctica (yesterday, we saw moss, but somehow it does not count as flora, because it does not flower – same for lichens).  This is a picture of the very little flowers that form on this very tough grass.  Global warming has been good for this plant – It has expended more than 500% in the last few years.

Then we had a really fun treat:  the crew members encouraged us to climb up a short snow covered hill, and slide down!  Suzanne and I rediscovered our inner 10 year old, and went twice – Sledding, on our butts, giggling all the way down (May be able to get a picture from the boat photographer).

While Suzanne, Jim and I did that, Joe hang around and took artsy-fartsy pictures – here is one of many, 








 and captured a great picture of penguins “porpoising” 

(they jump out of the water, like porpoises) sometimes in great numbers, looking where they are going)

During lunch, the captain went on the PA system to announce that 3 humpback whales were breaching (jumping) right in front of the boat- so we all ran to the deck, and watched the most amazing spectacle.

The whales basically put on a show for us:  jumping completely out of the water – as if posing for a “national geographic” shoot, and then rolling over, and waving with their fins.  Everyone was just so happy!  Even the crew was visibly excited – the lead excursion guide said that he has been doing this route for 17 years, and that this is only the 3^rd time he has seen this:  apparently, this kind of display happens more in the tropics- possibly because it has to do with mating, but no one knows why they do it.

Since we rushed to the deck from lunch, we did not have cameras, but who cares; this will stay as a great moment in our heads!

And then after lunch, we went on a zodiac tour (this is me on the zodiac- it was not cold enough to justify the number of layers I’m wearing…..)   And then after lunch, we went on a zodiac tour (this is me on the zodiac- it was not cold enough to justify the number of layers I’m wearing…..)  

                                                                  We followed a few whales around, which was just cool

– this is called “fluking”, and happens when the whale gets ready do dive down.

We of course also saw a great many icebergs– I like this one, because of the color, but also because it looks like a sculpture of praying hands.  

We then drove to a wreck:  this ship was purposefully sank in 1915, because it was on fire, and the only way to save the valuable blubber was to sink it:  the blubber was worth more than the ship itself!

There were 2 very nice sailboats anchored next to it – they do look cool, but, as much as I am enjoying this cruise, I don’t think that sailing through Antarctica sound like a lot of fun…. Well, to each his own… 

 The wreck now serves as a nesting area for Antarctic terns – by far the bird that travels the most during migration:  the go from the Arctic to the Antarctic every season – think about it!!!!!

During and after dinner a great many whales surrounded the boat – but all this fun is exhausting, and I was already in my pajamas when Joe called to tell me to come to the observation deck.  I missed the show…. But it’s good that Joe got to enjoy between 50 and 100 whales surrounding the ship.

Tomorrow, ice formation permitting, we will enter the Wadell sea where, if I remember correctly, Shakelton spent one winter.