Given the time difference, I was grateful to sleep until almost 6am.... Which is still very dark here (sunrise is at 6:40am), but means that after a couple of cups of coffee, I was ready for an early walk. The air was wonderfully dry and crisp, and the streets almost empty. I had the river walk all to myself. It’s not much of a river, particularly this time of the year, but it is why Santa Fe exists at all. Pueblo Indians (those who lived in multi storied adobe houses, unlike the nomadic Apache or Comanche) settled around it and cultivated the land as early as 1050AD. Also, apparently, the fact that it’s flowing at all is a really big deal. Water is a continual struggle in the high desert!
Since it was so early, I got to catch the first rays of sunrise on the adobe buildings and the cathedral,
and admire some of the smaller alleys without other people walking in front of my pictures.
I noticed that people where putting chairs along the road by the plaza, even though it was still before sunrise, so asked what they were preparing for: the Pet Parade! Which is a very big deal here, and is a 90 year old tradition associated with the fiesta I mentioned yesterday (which is itself the oldest community celebration in the US, dating from 1712 and celebrating the Spanish reconquest of New Mexico from the Pueblo Indians.)
Anyway, I stumbled on the staging area for the parade and was just delighted. The kids, and dogs, all dressed up, and some on elaborate floats. It was amazing! (Made more enjoyable to me because it is a completely local event, not a bit touristy - in fact, many tourists were complaining about the closed roads, and the crowded place - I thought it was just delightful!).
This Venice themed float was one of my favorites.
So was this Tower of Pisa- which had a pet chicken on every level!
But I loved them all!
We had booked a walking historical tour of the city, with Joe’s class. It was well worth it, and everything I’ve said so far about history, I learned there..... So, here is a bit more of it. Santa Fe (which means « Holy Faith ») has very strong building codes, which were established in 1957. Only 2 styles are allowed: Pueblo
and territorial, and colors can only vary between yellowish beige and reddish beige. It makes the town look like it has simply grown out of the desert, and gives it it’s uniquely coherent look.
But there is still room for creativity, particularly in this very artsy place: Art and sculptures are everywhere, and store fronts are bright with both vibrant plants and local ware.
We stopped by the beautiful St. Francis Basilica, with it’s bronze doors depicting Santa Fe’s history in medallions: This one refers to the 1860 Pueblo Indian rebellion - they won! (in part by cutting down the water access). The victory, while significant, was short lived and Spain retook the town 13 years later.
In front of the basilica is the statue of the first (only?) native American saint. The statue is very beautiful.
Santa Fe was established as a European settlement 13 years before the Plymouth colony! And has the oldest church in the US (St Miguel - tied with St Augustine in Florida). It was part of Mexico (once Mexico got its independence from Spain in 1821) and then became a US territory in 1866, until New Mexico became the 47 state in 1912. This explains why the city (and the state) still retains such a strong Spanish influence, culturally, linguistically and architecturally...
It is now the state capital of New Mexico, and our tour ended at the state house - which is round and from the air
looks like the New Mexico symbol. In front of it, is this famous native artist sculpture (Allan Houser), depicting the impact of technology changes on the native culture (note the barbed wire on top, and the planes flying through the faces, putting native culture in jail.... or something like that..... it is beautiful but the interpretation is not obvious....).
Anyway, by noon, we had walked and learned a lot. So, although Santa Fe is famous for it’s art galleries and it’s museums, this is what I choose to do instead. I am not feeling guilty at all!
Besides, I knew that dinner was going to be held in a famous sculpture garden, so I would get some art eventually. I knew little about it, and was just blown away by how beautiful the Allan Houser gallery and garden were: Allan Houser is probably the most significant Native American artist of the 20th century. He was the resident artist at Dartmouth in 1975 (thus the relation to this reunion). His work is all about the tragic Navajo history (Google it), and is just beautiful, particularly when displayed in the rugged mountains that surround Santa Fe. I was blown away!
A storm came through just as we arrived, providing surreal lighting, and even a rainbow. Dinner with Joe's classmates and their spouses was a lot of fun, and I promised I'd join them at upcoming events! Below are a few more of the beautiful sculptures from both the gallery and the garden.
Tomorrow, we are driving the long way to Mesa Verde national park (through Taos).
