We got up early today- we get up early everyday, because there is so much to see- but today was even earlier, so that we could get on the bus before 7:00am, and make it to the border between Chile and Argentina just at it opens at 8:00am.
The trick is to arrive early enough that there is not a line of buses waiting ahead of you, because that can take a long time - first, you have to exit Chile - that's one line to go through, then you drive a few miles to enter Argentina - another line to get passpsorts stamped at the smallest border crossing I've seen.... But we did manage to be the first bus in line, so that did not take too long (although another big tour bus tried to sneak in front of our line, but our guide was like a pitbull! and would not let that happen1).
It's good that went quickly because, even though we are about 80 miles straight north of Natales, Chile, you first have to go east across a vast desert, and then come back west - across same desert, which more than doubles the distance. And the roads are not great. Once we crossed on the other side of the hill in the East of Natales, we entered a very dry region, with monotonous hills covered with low bushes and grass.
There are sheep and cows here and there, and once in a while a nice house, but the ranches are huge because the vegetation is so sparse that you need lots of acreage to feed the animal. There is the odd guanaco and rias here and there but little else to see, other than beautiful cloud formations.
About halfway , we stopped at a town called Esperanza for coffee. There is only desert around it and "town" is a big word for it.... I guess Esperanza is a good name for it because you'd need a lot of hope to live there.....
As we got near our destination of El calafate (named after the ubiquitous berries), we could see lake Argentina in the distance: it is the largest lake in Argentina, at about 400 miles long, reaching depth of 3000 feet. Still, the landscape was completely bare. And then, you enter the charming town, and get near the lake and it all changes.
The town, which we just drove through (hopfully, i'l have some time to see it the day after tomorrow) looks really nice, the lake and the large marshy bay in front of it is really pretty, there is a wonderful walkway that goes the entire length of the bay, pretty little house everywhere... it's delightfull. Looking at the town from the back of the bay, you can still see the desertic hills behind it, making it even more stricking.
We arrived at the hotel around 3pm, having stopped at the edge of town for a leisurly lunch, and the group was going to go on to the glacier museum (the whole reason to be in El calafate is to go to the glaciers- but that's for tomorrow). But we all know that I only go to museums when it rains, and the weather was glorious. Plus, We had spend enough time on the bus and that beautiful walkway was calling my name! So I took a 10km walk along the marshes to that lake, enjoying the sights, the many birds (which will have to be identified at a later time), the horses, the windersurfer, the views!
It was great! I was a bit puzzled by these people who seemed to be bicycling back from the island in the middle of the lake, in the water.....
In the distance, on on side of the lake, you can get a glimpse of the Andes. The clouds that stream from there were very interesting.
There were many lapwings in the marshes and, just as in Natales, they got very agitated when I so much as looked at them! these are ground nesting birds, and I was so happy to be able to catch this sights of the chicks coming out of hiding! no wonder mommy gets so upsets, particularly when you see all the birds of prey flying around too....
Lupins are just starting to bloom. In about a week, the trail I was on will be covered with them!



















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