Sunshine on Inis Mor!

 The weather forecast called for showers all day.  But I have learned that in maritime climates, the weather forecast is basically useless.  And indeed, we had absolutely perfect weather for our day on Inis Mor - the largest of the Aran Islands.

We left Clifden for the easy 60km drive to the ferry, and arrived on the island in beautiful sunshine, no wind and perfect temperature, around 11am. (doesn't Joe look cool, waiting for the ferry?).

I decided to rent a bike and just go around all the sites, while Joe took one of the many mini buses that do the same loop - minus the sweat.  We kept running into each other, which made it possible to take the picture above (I do like to post pictures of the both of us together once in a while, to prove that he is still around.....).  Here is how you rent a bike on Inis Mor: you go to the bike place and give them 20 euros, 10 of which is refundable when you return the bike.  They ask for nothing- not your name, no credit card, nothing.  But then again, what would you do with the bike if you stole it?  The only way off the island is on the ferry, and they would probably notice.....

 Here is how Joe found his own tour guide:  He went to the dock where "hop on, hop off" minibus wait.  But most of them were gone because they just wait for the ferry and we had gone to the hotel first.  But then one guy asked him if he wanted to go on a tour, and basically ended up being his personal driver cum tour guide for the afternoon.  Even took him to visit his potato patch

 and his pet donkey "Ivan".

 (There are many very cute donkeys on this island.  They used to be working animals, but now, they are just pets and look pretty).

Inis Mor is just beautiful.  The limestone that forms the cliffs, the edges of beaches, and the many, many walls that divide the green and yet barren land provide a stunning landscape everywhere one looks.

The walls are really fascinating, as it is estimated that there are about 2000miles of them, on an island that is only 46 square miles!

Some are very old, like the ones around the fort at Dun Aonghasa - the best preserved Celtic fort in Europe, over 3000 years old (you do wonder a bit what they were protecting....  high above the cliffs, facing the ocean - who was going to invade???? In case you are wondering, the answer seems to be...  no one knows....).

But most date from the early 1800's, when they started partitioning the land.  They are mostly a way to build pastures, where there are rocks everywhere.

Both Joe and I took the "lower road" to first go visit the seal colony.

 On the way, there were many cows, and adorable little goats, and many MANY tourists:  the French ones were mostly on bikes, while the more sturdy Germans were walking (It's a long walk, I was impressed).  There must be bicycle traffic jams in high season, because it was really busy even today.  But there are only a few cars, so it works out.

The walk to the Celtic fort was short but steep, with a lot of foot traffic worn limestone steps, where one can see many fossils.  Indeed, these were quite fascinating by themselves, although the prime attraction is clearly the fort and the cliffs.

The cliffs are awesome.  It is amazing that:
1)  They let you get as near the edge as you want without any barrier.
2) more people don't fall off.

 The fort is fascinating by what it implies of the culture that built it, and of the long history of the island.

After that, we continued on to the "seven churches" ruins, dating from the 8th century  (there are in fact only 2 churches, the "seven" refer to the seven founders), and the cemetery that is still in use today (a nice place to spend eternity).

 I came back on the "high road".  there are basically only 2 roads on this island, and they form a loop.  When Claire and Emily came here together, 9 years ago - they somehow got completely lost, which makes me question the amount of money we spent on their education..... (then again, I did ask for directions once....).  The high road goes though more of the real neighborhoods, where islanders live - new houses sit next to, and sometimes include much older structures, or have ruins in their back yard. 

 Most of the new houses are really pretty......

I ended up in a cow traffic jam:  two cows and 3 calves were on the road.  It was clear that one of the calves did not belong, and one of the cows kept pushing it away....  it was all very tragic.... 

until the real mommy came running up the road and we shared a lovely reunion.  But during all this time, we (the bicyclists) were sort of stuck, because we did not want to aggravate any of these large animals - particularly with their babies.

Speaking of cows:  there are a lot of them.  people keep them for meat (send them back to the mainland for slaughter), and buy milk in the store.  The only milk produced here is goat milk, and there are indeed some very cute goats out there!  What there is not is sheep!  Did not see a single one (although Joe's personal guide told him there were a total of 40 on the island).  All the beautiful Aran sweaters (they are beautiful!) are knitted from imported yarns......

 While I was dealing with cows, Joe finally took a good picture of this little bird we've been seeing all  around, and that they call a robin here.  Looks more like a type of wren to me.... (there are many pretty birds here, we just have not taken many pictures of them because Joe did not bring the extra super-duper lens)

Finally, I rode to the other end of the island, past the airport, where there are some very pretty beaches and where people were swimming!!!! (really swimming, not just jumping in to make a point).  I does look cold to me, but I guess if you grow up here, you learn to take advantage of every sunny day.

The last ferry leaves the island at 5pm, and things get very quiet:  there are of course many inns, B&B's, etc...  but the majority of people just come on the morning ferry and leave by evening.  I'm glad we decided to relax and stay overnight.  The fish and Chips at Joe Wattys restaurant was great!
On to Galway tomorrow!