Wednesday, October 1, 2025

Rainforest and waterfalls (and cliffs).

 



Maui, like all Hawaiian islands, has several microclimates, depending on which side of the tallest volcano you are.  So in this case, the north side is very rainy on average, while the valley and south side are very dry.  So today, I went to the rainy side to experience the rain forest, and it’s many waterfalls.  It has actually been unusually dry, even on this side, but the forest itself is still lush and verdant.  


The guide who took us on this mostly easy 2.5 miles hike was very knowledgeable about local plans, as well as about secret trails and swimming holes.  We started in a local orchard, where we tried some passion fruit (it’s very good, if a bit slimy), and it’s flower is very pretty.


We saw some of the apple bananas grown here (not sure why they are called that, maybe because of their size- they are very good).  

This is the female part of the plant (the banana requires no pollination).


There is also a very impressive bamboo grove - just like everywhere else, bamboo tends to be invasive, but here, with all that rain, it invades with gusto!!!!


The trail took us through a forest of large tropical trees, with many flowers (see flowers at end of blog),

and a very cool hibiscus “tunnel”:  this is just one single tree, with branches extending for at least 50 feet and creating a dense network.

 This is the single main trunk that has created all of the branches.  And here is one of its flowers:

The entire trail smells of wild ginger, which smells really good!  And our guide taught us how to get a sip of nectar from it by sucking on the flower stem..


The main goal though was to go to several waterfalls, and enjoy the cool deep pools they form.  We got to swim in several of them.  The water was perfect.  



As mentioned above, it has been very dry, so some of the falls were barely flowing, but that means that in the “twin falls” pool, it was possible to climb up what would be the second fall, and jump of the cliff (see top picture). I only went about half way (I’m old!) but a couple of the teenagers on our tour jumped from the high cliff (and said it was very scary!). The water temperature was perfect!












The pools have many little minnows in them, and you can get a free “fish pedicure,” where they come and eat all the dead skin.  It tickles a lot!!!  People pay a lot of money for that!!!


Along the trail, we saw the network of irrigation pipes and tunnels that divert the water from the mountain to the agricultural valley below.  It was particularly critical when sugar cane was grown, because it requires a lot of water.  That is one reason it stopped. Most of these are dry right now, and we could walk through the drainage tunnels.  

The trail itself was mostly easy, with a couple of of very shallow water crossings (probably harder when it rains), and one short scramble.  







I came back with plenty of time for a quick dip in the ocean, which had waves exactly the way I like them:  high enough to dive in, but small enough to not be scary.  It’s weird how uncrowded the beach is:  there are quite a few people around the pools, but you get pools anywhere, you don’t get that beach!   Well, to each it’s own…
Tomorrow, which is our last day, we were supposed to go to the top of Haleakala.  But it is a national park, and thus closed.  Fuck Trump!!!!  I guess I”ll just have to spend the day at the beach…..  there are worse fates…..We’ll just take a deep breath and enjoy the sunset….


Some flowers from the hike:










`If it’s Tuesday, we must be on Maui….


 
We left Kauai early, enjoying a pretty sunrise first, and made it to Maui, our final stop on this 4 island, 12 day trip.  By now, all of us are just really confused about what day it is and where we are……

 

The good news is that we have had no time to watch the news… which, from the little we’ve heard is just not good…..


Our first stop in Mauai was at the Iao Valley state monument, in one of the many valleys that are carved by wind and rain at the bottom of the mountain.  

It’s very green and lush, and the reason for this park is the “needle”, which is an erosion remnant, and has played an important role in the battles that eventually unified Hawaii (warriors used to climb to the top - which seems hard!- to see the enemy coming, and an important battle was fought here.)



We then went to the Maui aquarium:  this  particular tour used to stop at Lahaina, but there is nothing left to see there….  Which is very sad.  The aquarium was very cool - focusing exclusively on local marine life:  

it has a big tank with many sharks and other cool fish, sea turtles (which I love!), and we got to to feed coral!!!  

Put small shrimp around it and see them eat it - which was oddly cool.  

They have a very impressive collection of live coral (most aquariums have artificial reefs).


My favorite fish is this unicorn fish (that’s actually it’s name). Some more pictures of fish at the end of the blog).  


 On our way to the hotel, we noticed how dry and brown the valley looks.  This is due mostly to the fact that, since 2018, sugar cane is no longer grown - leaving the ground unused and unirrigated.  They are in the process of developing alternative crops (mangoes, watermelons…), and some areas are starting to green up again.  BTW:  Sugar producing is very polluting because you have to burn the cane, so this is basically good, but with some pain in the transition.  

The aquarium is located on the windiest part of the island (and indeed, it was very windy)- so there are also a lot of wind turbines on the empty land.  We then followed the coast, where all the very rich people have their very big houses (Larry Ellison, Oprah, etc…), but obviously, you can't see them behind the gates, so no pictures…..(on the other hand, you can’t own the beach in Hawaii, so you can walk on all of their beaches….)

We made it to our very nice hotel (see picture from our room at top of blog) with enough time to have a walk on the beach and admire the grounds.

This black capped night heron was studying the large koi fish, trying to decide if he should eat them…

There are little  lizards everywhere that scatter around when you walk by.  


Another very nice dinner with our group, and an early night,

interrupted briefly by the traditional sunset incantation.

I’m going for a hike in the rain forest tomorrow, and hopefully will have some time for a swim too.  
Here are a few more pictures from the aquarium.