Monday, June 12, 2023

First stop in the north: grundarfjördur




I cant pronounce any Icelandic word!  Even the relatively easy ones, like today’s stop, but we will have a special lecture later in the week about how to do it, so maybe it will get better!


It was prettily overcast when we got up, and
the sea was rough during the night!  But as long as I am horizontal, I don’t get sea sick and indeed, it felt a bit like we were being rocked like babies….

By morning, things had calmed down and the clouds started to part over the Kirkjufell mountain and the Snaefellsjokull glacier!  By the time we reached port, we had beautiful sunshine! (Still cold, but that’s fine, we brought layers!).
Joe and I chose separate adventures today: I chose the “Lava and Viking Adventure”, while Joe went on to explore the west side of the Peninsula.  


I started with a short climb up “mount" Helgalfell- not really a mount.. But a steep hill with great views of the entire Peninsula.. Legend has it that if you make a “pure wish” (whatever that is) while facing east from the top, it will be granted….  As always when given a chance, I wished for peace on earth.    





We then went to the “capital” of the peninsula, Stykkisholm (nope, can't pronounce that one either).   Capital is in quotes because it seems too grand a name for the lovely and tiny town - population 1300.  

Climbed another rock, admired the city from above,





and visited the oddly large (and beautiful in a very modern kind of way) Lutheran church.


 
Our guide noted the unusually Catholic art in this Lutheran church…








This little town is very pretty, particularly on a sunny day like today. And it is hard to beat the beauty and grandeur of the landscape.  But it is so isolated!!!!  And it’s far from the most isolated place we saw today:  This farm, which has its own little church is about 10 miles from it, with nothing else around.

 
 It’s hard to imagine life there in the winter - but it certainly looks like a great place to be a child, a dog, or a sheep…..

                               
These children were jumping from the bridge into the 38 degrees water!  Wearing wet suits - but still….  Looking very happy.  These Icelandic children are tough!!!!

We continued on to the “shark museum” -  it's not really a shark museum.  It’s a “fermented Greenland shark museum”.

That’s a very cool story.  Greenland sharks (which can live to at least 400 years, making it the longest living vertebrate on earth) are no longer legal to fish.  But, they sometimes get caught in the nets of fishermen, particularly in the winter when the water surface is cold.  In the summer, they’ll dive down thousands of feet to seek cold water.  When they get caught and die, it’s OK to process the meat for food.  However, the Greenland shark, unprocessed, will kill you (Urea and other toxins make it inedible).  So, to make it safe, you first have to ferment it (basically, put it in a pile and wait 8 weeks for lactic fermentation to do its thing) .

It is then safe to eat, but they smoke it for 8 weeks, so that it can keep for years.  It has kept generations of Icelanders and Greenlanders alive through the winters….. now, it is a “delicacy”…. In quotes, because fermented shark - even smoked- tastes like ammonia and has the consistency of tough rubber bands.   So the trick is to eat it with a shot of straight vodka.  I think my face says it all…..


Before going back to the boat, we stopped by the
Kirkjufellsfoss water fall (I’m getting a hang on how to build Icelandic language:  this means “ the falls at the Church  mountain”.

New words are built by adding them at the end of other words, which is why they have such long words.  If you recognize that mountain (the one on top of the blog) it’s probably  because it has been in many movies, most notably “Lord of the Rings”, where it was called Arrowhead Mountain.  It was quite crowded at the falls because one of the large cruise ship had dropped anchor too:  compare it  
to the size of the small town next to it……..
 
While I was doing this, Joe was exploring the west side of the Peninsula which, unfortunately for him, was on the wrong side of the cloud bank.  Still, he followed the cliffs and saw many pretty sites too.









And, as always, there were many pretty wild flowers.  I plan on taking some pictures of the ship itself tomorrow morning, because it is very nice.  But after the evening’s gala diner, I may just sleep late…..







 
 

Sunday, June 11, 2023

Time to sail away!


 Today is the start of our actual tour - and we just boarded “Le Bellot”, a very French ship from “Le Companie du Ponant”. Our tour organizer is Tauck, which we had used when we went to Antarctica, and they always subcontract to Ponant, for the very good reason that it is a REALLY nice company. The ships are beautiful, the service is impeccable and the food is French!  And, as a bonus to me, I get to speak French to everyone, which is nice.  


We started the day with a nice lunch on the top floor of the Harpa (see yesterday’s blog for description),

followed by a quick guided tour of Reykjavik- we had purposefully only visited sights that were not on that tour- so it was nice to discover and learn more. 






We passed this important house - first built as the French consulate, but then acquired by the country of Iceland - it is were Reagan and Gorbachev met, and the people of Iceland are proud of the role they played in detente (we could use some of this right now).  

Drove by the office of the Prime Minister, and got one more look at the Hallgrimskirkja - so I took advantage of that to get pictures from another point of view.  


Then on to the Perlan Museum of Natural History and its famous ice cave exhibit (which replicates being inside a glacier), and it’s artificial cliff.  It was a short but fun visit.  

The museum itself has an interesting history - the  rounded structures used to serve as holding tanks for the geothermally heated water that is used to warm all the houses in Reykjavik.  It still does, but using a different system, so the tanks were repurposed as a museum (the dome was added later)






We are enjoying our lovely cabin (our home away from home for the next week),


and did the obligatory emergency drill, followed by a luxurious French dinner, which involved quite a bit of wine..... 

so pictures about sailing will have to wait till tomorrow....