The long way home

We got up very early today.....  breakfast was going to be at 5 am, so we had to be up around 4:30 am, but Joe misread his clock, and got up at 3:30 instead.....

We had a scheduled charter flight at 10 am, but because our tour director was worried about check points, road closures, etc., we left for the airport at 5:30 am (it’s about an hour drive). But we were happy to be on our way! 

 We were stopped at 3 checkpoints, but did not have any problem going through.  

We all had a letter from the consul that said we had the right to be there.  Made me feel special. (Also, this is literally the only thing the embassy did to help.  They have been completely useless. Their website still says “call your airline”....)

The airport was completely closed.  So we had to wait at the back door for about an hour for someone to open it, go through another checkpoint and then go to boarding. Turns out that evacuating a shut down country involves a lot of waiting and going on multiple lines.....  there did not seem to be too much concern about social distancing...

That famous picture of people evacuating Saigon at the end of the Vietnam war came to mind....  It is of course a completely unwarranted comparison:  We never felt in danger, or even uncomfortable.  Still.... these long lines, waiting for the only way out....  very unsettling

The airport itself  was completely empty and shut down. Could not even buy water.
Oddly enough, the only other flights (and there were more than one) were to the Malvinas Islands  (the Falklands).  None of us could come up with an explanation for this......

As we got on the plane, everyone took out wipes to clean every surface..... not sure it helps given the line situation, but it can’t hurt.....The plane was packed, and I had a middle seat, but it was really not bad.  It even had entertainment, so I got to watch Jojo Rabbit.... which I recommend.  No one checked our temperature upon landing, nor gave us any directives, or even suggestion about self-quarantine!!!!!! which is just crazy!

Miami international arrival was uncharacteristically quiet (I guess most people who were trying to get back are here already), so we considered flying back to New York, but a lot of flights had been cancelled (someone tested positive for COVID-19 in the main New York control center, slowing down all traffic). Besides, we were really tired by then. So we went to the airport hotel, and had one last social dinner (top picture). with some of our group. It was very nice.  We are probably going to feel quite lonely for the next few weeks, not having this nice bunch of people to hang around with.   The hotel itself, right in the airport is mediocre at best, but "location, location, location".....

Our flight on the next day was at 12:01 pm - we were originally booked on the 8:30 am, but that one was cancelled.  So we took it easy, but still ended up spending over 3 hours in a very quiet Miami terminal...  Quiet- but not empty.....  There seem to be no rules in Florida about sitting together in restaurants, or any other rule for that matter.

While a lot of flights were cancelled, there were a surprising number of international flights still going.....  The weather in Belize looked really nice....  it was tempting.... 

And there were a lot more flights to Cuba than to JFK??????

We had a nice view of Miami beach while taking off....

And another nice view of the beaches on Long Island......

Our flight was about 20% full, so we had lots of space, and the luggage came out quickly....
The ride from JFK was of course very quiet- did it in under an hour....
And then, as we got home, we discovered that the Lenten Roses were in full bloom.  What a nice welcome home present!

Day 4 of confinement in Lima

Last evening, our tour director announced that we at last had a flight, Saturday morning. A chartered LATAM flight to Miami.  Which means that this was our last day. Somehow, that made it a bit tougher. Until now, we tried to just make the best of things, but today seemed to just last too long.

But we still managed to have some fun:  at 6:30 pm, we all met in front of the lobby and brought all the booze everyone had left over, for a cocktail party (which definitely broke the "no more than 10 people at a time " rule, but we have been together for 2 weeks..... by now, we all have each other’s germs.....)

I, of course, took my usual walk to the pharmacy and the supermarket. The police told a member of our group that we should wear masks when we go out. So I put all my Spanish together to ask
"donde puedo comprar una mascaria"?  Even though Peruvians are very nice, kind and polite, she had a very hard time not laughing at me for thinking that there were any masks for sale anywhere.... but the supermarket, which yesterday afternoon was looking low on potatoes (that’s a very serious situation in Peru!) had restocked. Again everyone was calm and disciplined. 

I keep being impressed with how nice everyone is, and how clean the city is.  In fact, the people who clean the streets are still working as diligently as ever.  (Note:  I thought that was maybe because we are in a fancy part of town, but I’m writing this from the airplane and as we drove back to the airport- an hour drive away through other parts of town, it was the same everywhere).

Also, I need to give a shoutout to the wonderful staff at the Westin. They again moved the gym equipment, to a nice balcony overlooking the street, just because it’s nicer there.  They are doing everything they can to keep us happy and very well fed, and they all been sweet, and are exuding calm. I’m very impressed. 

So here is one last 🤞🤞sunset, from the 29th floor bar, over Lima. 

Day 3 of confinement in Lima

One thing that has surprised me about this whole thing is that, even though there is little to do, I’m not bored..... I guess in a way we are luckier than many, because we do have some social interaction:  we eat together with our group - so that’s 3 times a day for about one hour each, when we get to interact with other people.  We can walk to the supermarket and the pharmacy down the street, we can sit outside in front of the hotel.  And the weather has been just beautiful.  Low 80's with a nice breeze, sunny.  Still, I should be climbing walls by now, or at least binge watching Netflix, but I’m not (we have not turned on the TV once).

Today was basically the same as yesterday.   The neighborhood is very quiet.  While soldiers were stopping cars at the main intersection, I saw these people sitting together and enjoying the nice weather very near that same intersection, and no one said anything - that was surprising, because the message is very clear about people not being allowed outside in groups (in fact, the rule is only one at a time, although that does not seem to be enforced at all).  One person in our group saw soldiers giving chase to a motorbike with two people on it......

I went to the local pharmacy to refill a prescription for Joe.  It was really easy....  I just brought a picture of the label, and they sold it to me (at a very reasonable price) - no prescription needed....

So we keep hanging in here....  We are hearing positive rumbling from the embassy, and they have opened the bar on the 29th floor.....

Things could be worse......

Day 2 of confinement in Lima

Dawn broke over the mountains that surround Lima on our second day of confinement.  At least, we do not have to stay in the room, we can roam around the hotel, although the one restaurant that is open only has limited hours (but the food is good), and the gym is now closed.  

The hotel moved three of their stationary bicycles outside, which is both creative and nice!  In fact, I have found that the people of Peru are nice, helpful, kind, and remarkably level headed.  

I have seen no panic buying of toilet paper, and the line at the bank was very calm and well managed.

The stores continue to be well stocked (picture of the many types of dried chilies....  too bad I can’t bring some back). We are in a very nice part of town, and there are rumors that other parts are not as quiet, with people breaking curfew (which is now from 8 pm to 5 am)) and the military getting involved.  Here, while there are a few soldiers with machine guns on the street, they seem to only be at the one major intersection and are stopping mostly cars.  

We keep trying to make the best of a bad situation and our little group is mostly upbeat, although we can tell that nerves are getting frayed......

One of the Smith women organized a singing group and we spent a lovely hour learning new rounds, some pretty, some silly.

It was delightful.  We are planning on doing it every evening until this ends.....

Tomorrow at lunch, we’ll also have a “Spanish table,” where one of the participants, who happens to be a Spanish professor from Smith, will work with those of us that need help...

It’s nice to see that the US press is picking up our plight, which may put some pressure on the incompetent State Department.   Below is from the NY Times - mostly about people stuck in Morocco, but also mentioning Peru.

Day 1 of confinement in Lima

    

 It’s not been a bad day at all given the situation.....  

we are in a really nice hotel - the Westin- in the financial district, which, for obvious reasons is very quiet right now.  















Here are some pictures of the Hotel and the lobby.  We are being well cared for and are being served 3 very good meals a day.  (See picture of the desert buffet). So it is hard to complain given the global situation. 

 But the lack of information about how long this will last is indeed very stressful.  The picture at the top of this blog is the view from our room - we also have a nicer side view of the mountains in the background, but I wanted to illustrate the empty roads.....

This being said, we had a nice day.  I went to the gym - which oddly remained opened today (seems like a weird place to keep open when there is worry about contamination) and used the treadmill and even did some weight lifting.  Unfortunately, they’ve realized (or were told by the government) that this is not a good idea, so the gym is closing tomorrow.

We also went to the grocery store down the street - which is an allowed activity.  

It is quiet (but there were people around) and very well stocked.  

They even have ample supplies of toilet paper (maybe we should bring some home??) .

The streets are VERY quiet, but not empty.  There are some armed soldiers, but only a few, and they did not ask any question.  Indeed, we went to the grocery store twice:  The first grocery store had a wonderful "licores" (booze) section, but would not sell it to us because they said it was "prohibido" (forbidden).  But then we went out again when we were told that the second grocery store (just across the street from the first one) had interpreted the directive differently and was selling booze.  So - all was good - I got my Chardonnay, Joe got his Jack Daniels (things were about to get tense!).

I contacted the US embassy in Lima - via email because they are not reachable by phone.  Their answer was - I’m not kidding here: “if your flight home was cancelled, please contact your airline”!!!!!!!!!  But there is some positive news on the horizon:  The government has relaxed the outbound flight rule and is now allowing charter flights to evacuate tourists.  The embassy and travel agency (and many other travel agencies for people stranded here) are working at getting a charter flight.  We are keeping our fingers crossed!

We have made the news in the US!  Which is a positive thing - because it puts pressure on the government to help.

I don’t know where the picture was taken, but it does not reflect our experience - no tanks here......

More adventure than we bargained for.......

We were supposed to take the train to Machu Picchu today, but as we know “when men make plans, God laughs”.  He must have had a good giggle with this one....

Peru shut down completely - to try to stay ahead of COVID-19:  They only have about 100 cases, and are trying to keep it that way.  They gave 28 hours notice before shutting the border to all ground, water and air transportation in and more importantly OUT of the country.

So instead of going to Machu Picchu, we went back to Cusco- to the very pretty hacienda style Marriott, right in the center of town.  

It would have been a wonderful place, if we had not felt so uncertain about what was happening.  This little guy really wanted to come inside our room......

We had a nice lunch at the hotel (this is the desert table). The food here is really good!

Once it looked like we were going to stay there for a while (possibly up to 2 weeks), I thought I may as well go for a walk around town, since by tomorrow, we would be confined to the hotel.  

Cusco is a very pretty town, surrounded by mountains, where the terracing done by the Incas is still very visible and in some instances, in use.

The Spanish style center of town, with it’s big cathedral and it’s typical balconied houses is built directly on the ruins of the Inca town, and a lot of the old Inca walls are clearly visible- note the mortar-less construction and the slightly tilted walls.

A lot of the side streets are too narrow for cars, and still show the cobble stones, and the center waste water channels.  

I could not get inside any of the museum, churches, etc, but it is just pleasant to walk around.  All the little stores around the plaza were closed.  I feel really bad for the people of Cusco, who are so dependent on the tourism industry.  Here are a few more pictures.

Back in the hotel, a few local women were selling alpaca shawls and blankets.  I bought a shawl - in part because it was pretty, but mostly because they won’t be able to come tomorrow and I wanted to help a little bit.  Another women had brought her baby alpaca, which is possibly the cutest creature ever!  He kept snuggling with me and making these endearing little sounds.  I want one!

In the lower level of the hotel, there is even a small Inca ruin section that has been excavated.

Just as we were getting comfortable with the idea of spending a week or two here (the hotel is really pretty), we were told that our travel agency had succeeded in getting us a flight to Lima.  It’s important to get back to Lima, because it’s the only international airport in the country, so when things open up a bit, we need to be right there.

So we packed up quickly and went to the airport!  The airport had by then been shut down, and we were escorted by the police.  Here is what the terminal looked like when I got in.....  it was eerie. We are travelling with a nice bunch of people, and, since we obviously could not take a Dartmouth picture in Machu Picchu, we took one with its picture in the terminal (see top of blog)` We arrived in Lima around 11:30 pm.  By the time we got the luggage and then transferred to the hotel, it was almost 2 am...... I was VERY tired.  On the drive to the hotel, every intersection had policemen and armed forces, stopping people and telling them either to get home, or asking where they were going and why.  It was weird.  But, the hotel (a brand new Westin) is very nice, the bed is extremely comfortable, and it has a decadent bathroom.  We will be on lockdown starting tomorrow, but at least, in a nice place.......